How to Paint and Rig a Sloop

By Guy Rheuark

49D22508 B016 458D 8226 19B8ACCBF4CD

Ships are one of the most striking things about Blood & Plunder. Being able to play out an epic duel between two captains, brought to life on a tabletop, is one of the things that brings people into this hobby and this game. The ships serve the purpose of a grand centerpiece for your force, and are customizable and functional, covered in details like wood grain, cannon ports, and hatch grate.

These ships can also be intimidating. It feels like that much blank canvas stares back at you. Taunting you.  Where do you start? What if you mess up? What if you don’t like it? What to do.

To those ends I cataloged myself painting and rigging, as a sort of How-To. The Sloop is the most versatile ship in Blood and Plunder, and is the one I believe most people should start with. Joseph Forester wrote an excellent overview of it, that highlights its flexibility.

Disclaimer: I have no such awards, merits, accords, or prizes for my painting skill. If you know a better, easier, cooler way to do something I do here, I would love to hear about it, as I am always trying to be better.

How to Prep Your Blood & Plunder Sloop

Step 1: Opening the Box

FC3F4EC0 4FBA 4E96 AE9C E891F1A38560

Open up the sloop box, and gently remove the contents.

6996C859 E1DA 4067 A85B 3B11597D5113

At this point you are just checking to make sure it is all there.

316E5DAF 2014 4C27 9690 C85114B0A760

The paper items are an important part of rigging the ship, and playing the game. Put them somewhere safe, and do not throw them away.

6AB07B29 EF65 42DF B5E5 37DBACEA4DAD

You should inspect your hull. I’ve never gotten a bad ship from Firelock, as their quality control is very high. Each ship will have minor imperfections, such as bubbles or bends. As you handle your ship, make a mental note of those areas.

0164B362 DA78 4535 923B 8B821C171A35

Next look over the accessories you got in the kit. The back of the box tells you what comes with your ship. Take a moment to count your dowels, laser cut rigging, cannons, and swivel guns. Make sure they are all accounted for. Next find your mast and bowsprit. These are the two largest dowels. Fit them into your sloop deck, to make sure they will attach later on.

Step 2: Cleaning

545EC2B9 5771 4176 99CE 59C1A30C0226

Tools Needed:

  • Hobby Knife
  • Old Glove for Left Hand
  • Rag
  • Sandpaper
  • Hand Soap
  • Optional Tools:
  • Files

In this step you will get the sloop hull ready to paint.

C8A7136C EB3B 4B76 8508 8D93C82EE312

When sanding, cutting, or filing, make sure any open containers are far away from your work area.

547C5CE1 20A5 4C4F 9BD3 5022747124DF

After putting on your glove(s) choose a side to work on. Here I chose the larboard side.

69A4D196 575B 4B36 8D6F 61ECC1103AD9

Cute any thin resin from the gun ports. Do not apply too much pressure, as you do not want the knife to slip and mar your hull. If you are filing, you will be able to smooth out the gunports.

FAA86FFB C553 40A9 BBA5 D541A94988CC

Refer to your mental notes about the bubbles on your hull. While I didn’t photograph it, I use my gloved left hand to hold things that I have to apply pressure to to cut. Nothing stops a person from hobbling for a day like a flesh wound.

42006084 A614 4F1F 9EFB C3205A7B0E15

Remove any bubbles in your chain guard holes and mast holes. Have the parts that go in these holes in hand so you can make sure they fit.

F987452F 30A1 4411 AE20 F64D4AE9A0BB

Always put the guard on when you are done using the knife. Not only does this prevent wounds, but helps keep the blade sharp.

Adjustments.plist 22

This is the assortment of files that I use for most projects. You can also use an emery board, as resin is quite soft. If your knife work was skilled enough, you can skip the filing.

B08D21EB F9DA 4F03 8216 F7921E568FBA

Use a large flat file for the gun ports. File the resin down from what you cut out. You do not need them to be perfectly smooth, just get rid of the sharp edges and clean up the corners.

A0D8A0F7 30A0 424E 8E5B 0A6C71E0B150

Use a round file for the hawsepipe. This is the small round hole near the bow that’s intended for the anchor chain to go through.

84073EF0 5A3D 4F00 97D3 2D114558F49E

Because of small imperfections during casting, most ships rock slightly. To Correct this, to place sandpaper on a firm, level surface. Find the point that your ship rocks from, and apply pressure, sanding the bottom of your ship. Only run your ship over the sandpaper five to eight times before checking if the rocking is gone.

19AC0481 201B 4916 8871 8C7907B0F436

Wash the resin ship with hand soap and warm (not hot) water. Use a rag to lightly scrub all surfaces.

 If part of your ship is bent, now is when you will correct that. After washing the ship, set the water to hot. Run the bent part under the hot water for a while, being careful not to burn yourself. Immediately after taking it out of the water, slowly bend the part to the correct position. If it doesn’t bend, the water isn’t hot enough or it hasn’t been under the water for long enough.

After washing the hull, towel it off. Set it in a dry place for about a day. Do not place it in direct sunlight. If you notice any water beading in it during the day, shake it off. You need it completely dry for the next step.

Step 3: Priming

Adjustments.plist 21

Tools Needed:

  • Neutral Hobby Spray Paint
  • Well Ventilated Low Humidity Area
  • Large Scrap Cardboard Sheet
  • Optional Tools:
  • Black Hobby Spray Paint

CF2796EB 770F 4702 BDF6 386E1E544442

Place the Sloop on its side, on the cardboard. Vigorously shake the spray paint can for 45-60 seconds. Immediately after shaking, spray the hull from about 6” away, in a quick even sweeping motion. After about three passes, shake the can again and admire your work. Do not touch the sloop. Keep spraying until the entire upper side is painted. It does not need to look perfect, just painted.

After waiting about an hour, flip the ship over and repeat this process for the other side.

8EB7488C ADF1 4566 8AB1 CA5FAAE1BAEC

After waiting about an hour, put the sloop right side up. Using the same process as above, paint the deck and the inside of the gunwales. Gunwales are the upper edge of the hull. You might need to turn the ship to paint both sides.

0054C5F3 235A 42B8 9B0A 77746F1C3FB3

If you have black spray paint, you can save yourself some time by painting the hatch grate. The hatch grate is the checkered square in the middle of the main deck. The low parts are meant to represent the inky black of the hold. Painting them by hand is a pain, as each little hole has five sides to paint, and if you miss one the high contrast black makes it very noticeable.

Adjustments.plist 19

Spray the hatch grate in the same manner you sprayed the hull. Spray the paint from directly above for the best coverage. Again, it doesn’t have to be perfect, and it is ok to spray more a little outside of the hatch grate.

After waiting for the black to dry, your ship will be ready to detail!

How to Rig Your Blood & Plunder Sloop

Step 4: Assemble the Mast, Bowsprit, Boom, and Gaff

85068A01 F3B4 4BED B0D4 75C74FF95F7D

Tools Needed:

  • Wood Glue
  • Paper Towel
  • Non Porous Drying Area
  • Dowel Guide:
  • (From top to bottom in the above picture)
  • Main Mast
  • Flagstaff
  • Gaff
  • Boom
  • Bowsprit

F1948FFA 82EE 4A3E A941 A4A49C158F33

Peel the plastic carefully from both sides of the rigging components. These can sometimes break easily, so don’t bend or force them.

25F6DF20 DE3E 4A75 AF14 C7FB6AE870C8

Get out the rigging guide that you got in your box. Note the name of each and where it goes.

Adjustments.plist 14

Start with RP1. Apply glue to the inside edge of RP1. I like working with wood glue when I can. It gives one of the best holds for wood parts. Parts do not need to be joined immediately, so you can move them to where you want, or correct a mistake. It’s a slow glue though, taking about a day to cure.


Attach RP1 to the bowsprit. Use a paper towel to remove any excess glue. I will not be priming these, and paint does not stick well to glue. Make sure RP1 is centered on the dowel.

Adjustments.plist 2

Repeat the same process for the Gaff and the Boom. It is a good idea to towel off excess glue, even if you intend to prime the rigging.

Adjustments.plist 1

Set the glued parts down on a non porous surface, like plastic. Even with the most care, they will “stick” slightly. Do not let them dry on a wood table.

7459666E D9A0 4D9B BD5F 3F2ACE96368F

While those are drying, fit RP7 and RP10 to your mast, without any glue. If they do not fit, use sandpaper to smooth the dowel till they do.

E02AB358 E598 4EF2 80AC 58CB4E147668

Next, fit the Flagstaff into the RP7 and RP10, without glue. You are making sure they fit, and eyeing where you want them.

540373FB 3C65 411D 890F 32EABA5014B7

Remove RP10. Push RP7 down the Mast slightly. Apply a thin layer of glue where you want RP7 to be.

DAAE99C8 4344 4C26 9EB6 DDDC41A9B7BC

Push RP7 up over the glue, to where you want it to be.

2341C986 9D6B 428A 9B74 BF09745BEFFB

Use a paper towel to remove the excess glue. This is especially important here, because the glue can glob over the holes intended for the rigging.

A0BEF847 A93B 4E33 916D DA241D56F8DA

Apply another layer of glue for RP10. Attach it in the same way you attached RP7.

18CEB1C7 6DAD 4EE8 A188 AAA2CEC55F78

For the flagstaff, apply a layer of glue to the intended holes instead of the flagstaff.

FAB0A289 7662 458F BCB9 B9A3180AC8C1

Gently push it in, and towel off the glue that is smeared on the flagstaff.

E3949B97 2AF1 4835 AEA8 7B5287E22968

While it’s still wet, look at your mast from the top to make sure everything is straight. Set it down to dry with the other parts you glued.

3186C346 28F6 4C7E 9459 A4211BD7C1E1

Let those pieces cure for a day.

9C77FA47 79F2 4D34 8DB1 AEEE63E3D525

While you wait, dry fit RP6, the chain guard, to the hull of the sloop. If they fit, take them out and apply a layer of glue. Put RP6 in the slot, and clean any excess glue off the outside.

646A204E 3EBE 4C59 A2B4 786447339AE6

If RP6 doesn’t fit, use your files, or a knife, to carve out the space.

Adjustments.plist 8

The next day check your work. Attach RP4 to the boom by adding glue to the inside of RP4. Make sure that RP1 on the opposite side of the Boom is facing up. Set it aside to dry and attach RP3 to the Gaff in the same way, making sure to clean any glue off.

6576E85F 551B 4917 8FB7 64BCEAD6B7C7

While they dry, pick up the bowsprit. Apply glue to the end and fit it into the hull. Make sure RP1 is facing up.

FA75EF79 9529 439C 8D09 01FE54430D43

You might have to use a stick to clean the glue off the hull.

97EC66D5 23C6 4F0D 9891 CC4E68557E25

Look at the ship from the front to make sure it is straight.

F6A54BD1 F486 45A8 B6DA F9719EAE960A

Check the bow from the back as well. Set the rigging parts aside to cure for a day.

Step 5: Painting the Larboard Side

C8D350DC 9196 45F4 B454 D2DA14F0ED0C

Paint Supplies Needed:

  • Paint
  • Brushes
  • Non Precious Cup for Water
  • Wet Pallet
  • Paint Rag
  • Poster putty
  • Optional: Large Old Towel

240B7569 301E 46EC 9200 FEE335D59EBD

I used to mount my ships on a large paint jar of gesso. It was inconvenient, and they fell off often, sometimes ruining the coat. I started using a large folded old towel to hold the ship while painting.

5B2ECDD5 D9BE 4C90 BC16 6EFEC042EA3D

The towel can be rotated, letting you easily get the ship to the right angle for your wrist.

6739BB8E 2F9C 498D AEF5 0B369740624F

Using a towel also saves the paint on the other side, as long as you don’t move the ship around on the towel often.

493A955D EB0E 4566 AB4C 01201EF209B4

Start at the hull below the gunwales. Most hulls of the era were painted black below the waterline, to stave off shipworms. Choose whatever color you want.

I use cheap, craft store paint for my basic colors. I can shake them to mix the paint, with few consequences, and paint out of the cap. I will sometimes have to apply multiple coats with lighter colors. For the sake of you following along, I limited my color selection to Delta Ceramcoat paints, and Citadel Paints and Washes.

B2D7EC5F AAA8 4493 A98D EE768B8BFE8D

When you first start painting your ship, save yourself some time and choose a larger brush for the base coats.

Use the wet pallet to thin your paints. The entire ship is covered with wood grain details, and a thick coat of paint or primer will erase that detail.

70EC5734 232C 46C8 B7DC A025689E0158

Apply the paint in thin even strokes. Don’t worry about “going over the line”. Use this step to paint the underside of the waterline. The waterline is  the moulding that separates the lower hull from the gunwales.

F34D9EC9 ECCC 43A6 B53A 78490F461548

When you get to the stern use a smaller brush.  Follow the waterline from the larboard side and paint everything below it.

58FF658D 17D5 4BA0 BD33 EE48C6E0FACA

Once done, clean off your brush. Go over the area again, with your clean brush, to smooth the paint out. Make sure the paint hasn’t welled up anywhere.

E31C8F43 F9FD 4CBB A4DA 6A0BA2B3D8B6

Check out your work from different angles, to make sure you painted everything.

6DABB3A4 3003 4FF8 B9E4 42E6D65AF37B

Next, choose a brown paint. I went with Mournfang Brown, but any wood brown will work. Do not choose a color that is too dark if you intend to use a wash. Citadel paints, and most acrylic paints, need to be stirred before they are used. I use toothpicks to stir my paint.

348189DC 1535 4AFC AC24 04D05F1E2432

Using the same brush from earlier, paint the gunwales in broad, even strokes.

1765686C D2AA 4D2D 9B50 2A7947C72E02

Paint the mouldings of the bow, the hawsepipe, the chainguard, the cannon ports, the skids, and the underside of the railing.

CDFB24FE 7A15 47EA B511 D547524CE592

Go over the area with a clean brush like you did with the black hull. Citadel paint dries fast when thinned, so you can find thicker paint by looking for shininess.

1E58FA3B 4095 4D7D 9B42 FBC830C24EF0

With a smaller brush, paint over any brown paint you got on the black paint.

After you’re done, let the ship sit for 2-3 hours.

8CBB616F 6403 4FF0 8FD9 58D4853AB2D3

Use Agrax Earthshade for a brown wash. I will use this same wash for the entire ship. A paint wash is essentially watered down paint. It is useful when painting models because it can get into the crevasses and make them darker. As stated, the whole ship is covered with wood grain, and this wash will help that detail show.

Unlike regular Citadel paints it is ok to shake their washes instead of stirring them. Shake each wash a good 5 seconds before use.

FAC57B5E 9A4B 469A B2F7 0FBB5E9389CE

Attach a glob of poster putty to your desk and press the wash firmly into it. This is because it is very easy to tip over the very small pots these come in, especially when focused on painting.

C70713C2 4B44 4FE8 86D4 799711803B6B

Use a brush you don’t care about to spread the wash. When putting wash on your brush, run the brush on the inside lip of the wash pot so you don’t put too much wash on at once. Make sure you methodically cover the entire larboard side, adding a heavier concentration under the trim to simulate shadows.

F10D4902 B163 4180 A4E9 4309E733B1B2

Wash the black of the hull as well. Wash takes a while to dry, so you can again check if you missed anywhere by looking for shininess.

20E75AA2 DF02 41BF B15F 9E9F38550CDB

Add a heavy layer of wash to the bow. The ornate carving is called a beakhead.

After painting the entire side, let it sit for 2-3 hours to dry.

08433CD3 D449 4020 A80C 006245A6577E

After it’s done drying, inspect your work.

Adjustments.plist 4

The heavy layers of wash in the bow trim look like shadow and give the detail depth.

If you like the look of your model at this point, you can skip painting the trim.

Next we will be dry brushing. Dry brushing is an important feather in the amateur painters cap. When done well, it is an easy way to add highlights to a model.

The alternative to dry brushing is edge highlighting. Edge highlighting is where you apply a thin line of a brighter color to the areas the sun would hit at high noon. This can be time consuming.

C4BDAA08 42BA 4765 B5E7 10EC2CD7DB79

Get out a paint rag. Dry brushing does not use a wet pallet, and a lot of paint will end upon your rag.

F8D650EB 1231 4D1F ADAD 6FDEE6B1BD37

Choose a large brush that you don’t care about. Dry brushing destroys brushes over time. Do not wet the brush before using it.

FBA31061 3A45 499D B426 146BB89CF272

Dry brush Mournfang Brown over the black of the hull. This is the same brown we started with for the gunwales and helps create the effect that it is naturally brown.

If you haven’t used your paint for more than a day, mix your paint. Do not shake Citadel paints. Also, do not use the paintbrush to mix the paint, as that’s a quick way to ruin a good brush.

71783E75 DC49 45E0 BF8A 4478FFB41732

After lightly dipping your brush in paint, use your rag to get most of the paint off. Test the brush on areas of the rag you haven’t painted, or even your hand. You want the paint to be barely on the brush.

746BD1C8 A3B4 4385 9CE8 1A64EB976F2A

Dry brush the entire black area. It’s ok if you think it isn’t showing up.

Adjustments.plist 5

To dry brush the gunwales, use a much lighter paint than Mournfang Brown. I used Bambi Brown.

AA11D4D4 8386 4086 B373 17AADD3A0F1C

Dry brush the gunwales, using the same process as you did on the black hull. With a lighter color like this, be extra careful with how much paint is on your brush. Too much paint will ruin the effect.

B26FF3C4 F20A 4A5F 97C7 8CB9667AE4E2

Dry brush around all sides of the gunports and the chain guards. Go over the areas until you are happy with it. If you think you put on too much light paint, or you don’t like the look, paint it Mournfang Brown again.

2AB8B4C4 13E3 4031 933B 4C9F1946EB2A

It is now time to add wear to the gun ports to make them look used. For the gun ports use a dark brown, like Rhinox Hide.

0F0D9A1D 9527 4EE5 8E74 2037FCEA1D5E

When dry brushing around the gunports, place your brush in the gun port and brush away from the center of the hole, to simulate the fire and smoke of a cannon being fired. Only add enough to be noticeable.

E3E4EA4E 3D1C 4E4F A97A 87AA4033A729

This is the larboard side after three stages of dry brushing. All that is left is to paint the trim, railing, and details.

5C792121 7D12 48E4 B800 9E2F91757221

For the trim and railing use a Bright Red, or another color that you like.

A5741550 C7B8 48A1 9AB5 2BBDAB81831F

For this process use a smaller brush. For line work like this, I like using a brush slightly smaller than the area I am painting.

D86B0FEE 8347 47AF 9B1E FB3575A478C7

Start at the bow. The beakhead is going to take the most time to paint. Bright colors need several coats to look even, so do not be frustrated if the color doesn’t show up well after one coat. Only paint the top of the beakhead, leaving your wash below to help contrast the bright color. Also leave the keel brown. The keel is the wood beam that runs along the center bottom of a ship.

2FBE46C6 8730 46D6 A801 5505D7D52CFE

Once the beakhead is done, move on to the trim and railing. Don’t worry about painting the top of the railing, it will be painted when the ship is at a better angle.

56E3B2C8 229E 47F9 9630 625B031D5110

When you’re painting small areas like this, you will mess up occasionally and paint something you don’t want to paint, like I did here. When that happens, don’t panic.

0C30FFF8 F73A 4137 A1A2 780F5A69D71C

Wash your brush in your water. Without drying it completely, use the brush to spread water on the area you didn’t want paint. Once the paint is diluted with the water, dry your brush, and use the brush to remove the water.

5061821E 87CF 4F18 9FE3 EDDBEB9212BC

The top of the railing will be painted later.

4339118B 8032 472A B5C1 F29ACB479852

Paint the hawse pipe and the trim. It might take two to three coats for the color to be even. On the plus side, the red is supposed to look like paint, so if you like how it looks thin in places, leave it that way.

6A555ECA 34AE 4530 83D5 5A7F2782B247

Paint the skids in the center of the larboard side red all the way into the black of the hull. The skids are where the ship turns from, and it’s important that they are noticeable.

The last thing to do on this side is edge highlight the red. Edge highlighting is a slow process, and if you like how the larboard side of the ship looks, feel free to skip to step 6.

4DC9D2D7 0AB0 4371 948D E182C98D61BB

When adding a highlight, you usually use a lighter version of the same color, like you did on the gunwales. Light reds are usually pink, however, and don’t highlight well. So instead use an adjacent color to red, in this case, a very bright Pumpkin.

BEF66448 9156 43E5 BDD9 B15FAA6A61B3

Add an edge highlight to the top of each part that is red. You are trying to simulate the sun coming from above and illuminating the top.

When painting such a small area, brush control is very important. Anchor your arm to the table and use your off hand to steady your wrist. Position the towel perpendicular to your arm.

B19FADA1 F0E1 4A45 BD7C 5980DD939511

Don’t edge highlight the top of the beakhead yet.

C829C2CA 20AE 4E27 A5F5 BBA233B9C448

Even though they are slightly recessed, edge highlight the lateral support beams in the beakhead. When edge highlighting circular objects, like the hawse pipe and the curl above the keel, paint the top forty percent.

3044DEE0 2F52 49B6 AC9E 81294A8814D8

Edge highlight the top of the skids and the trim below the gunwales.

8C1415CD 243C 4CF8 A51A 0DD33838E07D

After edge highlighting the stern, the larboard side is complete.

Next we will paint the weather deck. The weather deck, or just deck, are the parts of the ship your models will go on.

Step 6: Paint the Decks

DDE76A07 0D6B 470D B483 894DE0B19341

Paint Supplies Needed:

  • Paint
  • Brushes
  • Non Precious Cup for Water
  • Wet Pallet
  • Paint Rag
  • Poster putty
  • Optional: Large Old Towel

Use Mournfang Brown as the base wood tone for the deck. Use a medium sized brush to paint the deck, but do not paint over the hatch grate.

FD3951C2 6D7B 4688 9571 896FD74FA1FB

Paint an even layer over the deck, around the hatch grate. Once you paint the large main deck, paint the smaller poop deck behind it. Once you have painted the poop deck, if any black is showing through the brown paint on the main deck, put another coat of Mournfang Brown on it.

40790F96 DA29 46F7 A1A8 FA80CFBFD297

Use a cleaned brush to make sure there are not any places your paint was put on too thick, like you did on the hull.

507519BE 569B 4BF9 8780 5552F9809492

Wait about an hour for the deck to dry.

634D054A DF07 4425 B223 096CE9A81CBF

Paint the inside of the gunwales next. Roll up the towel the ship is on to prop up one side. Make sure you paint all the edges and beams..

3D3F7245 B19E 4BA3 9577 898B35F83F79

Slowly make progress around the ship. The inner gunwales will only be painted and washed, so be as thorough as possible.

111F3C50 125B 423C A12A 32E71F039104

Continue around the interior of the ship. Paint the top of the top of the door near the bow as well.

7001A6A5 11F7 448A 9EA1 6EE1110BF9F9

After painting the main deck, paint the gunwales of the poop deck.

D5FECE68 6D39 4372 995E 4A39126AD231

While the ship dries, move the ship with the towel to make sure you painted everything.

Let the ship dry for 1-2 hours. The next phase is to wash the deck; the gunwales, the bow, the stern, and the wall between the decks.

EF981CD1 29DC 4F69 A13F C5E345088222

Check your ship to make sure the paint on the deck is dry.

20B8AD63 18CA 4359 A07D 3E5AECC3DB74

Use Agrax Earthshade for the wash, using putty to attach it to the table like last time.

C906D7F8 F97E 424A AF0C 137323A76FDB

Start in a corner of the ship and start washing the deck.

B5B2F152 50BD 44A7 A280 028C6B7643E3

One of the best parts about this stage is that it only takes a few minutes to do, but requires hours to dry between each stage. If you have several things to do in a day around or in your home, you can spend 5-10 minutes adding a wash, and then come back after and do the next wash after work/school/running your errand. Expert time management.

2C172FBF 9236 4760 8B01 F958F2C3813A

Make sure the edges of the poop deck are washed.

AEC75FBA 7D6A 4121 8336 F82EC6A9CA41

Add extra wash to the stern.

B0C63FC7 EACD 4610 9175 66BCC4EA0A63

When you are done, clean your brush. Use the clean brush to thin the wash that is too thick, or has pooled.

Let it dry for 1-2 hours.

B2F95B2A 7998 46E8 820E 11E2166FAC38

Once the deck is dry, turn your ship on it’s side. Add a wash to the gunwales.

F36D0DE6 C010 432A BC41 532655325282

You have the ship on its side so that gravity will help the wash fill the wood grain and beam details in the gunwales.

F23BF7D4 6914 42F7 AA9D DA0D31160A61

Add wash to the entire side, the bow section, and the wall between decks.

Wait 1-2 hours for it to dry, then flip your ship over.

0EA562AC 20BD 436D 8F6C C1789FCB9787

The last area in this step we need to add wash to is the starboard gunwales.

BA522CE6 CCB5 4DF4 903D 52273A6695DC

Repeat the same process you used for the larboard side.

Let it dry for 1-2 hours.

DB0D4D86 F2FE 44D0 BB93 E70947A65722

Once you are done with all the washes, look over your ship for any large section you missed with the wash. Missing small spots is ok, but if you missed any large beams, add wash to it and then let it dry.

The inner gunwales should look like they are in shadow. The wood grains and beams of the deck should be visible. If the wash seems too dark in any spot, or the deck looks like it was stained with coffee, that will be corrected when dry brushing.

Before that, you have an entire side of the ship to paint.

Step 7: Paint the Starboard Side

08A4F48D 18A8 4428 9AC2 E16E6B772C6F

Paint Supplies Needed:

  • Paint
  • Brushes
  • Non Precious Cup for Water
  • Wet Pallet
  • Paint Rag
  • Poster putty

Put the ship back on its side. Be careful when it’s on this side, and don’t move it on the cloth that much, because you don’t want to ruin your work on the other side.

D35F8D1A E54B 4897 BCFC 80770A4B2FD9

For this whole side you are going to do the same things you did on the larboard side. Start with the hull and paint it black.

22AB6D6F C26C 4D4F 86E8 858EA52265AE

It always seems easier when you already have one side done.

99B19AB6 A34C 43E6 856C FA2D80C34A18

Next, use Mournfang Brown to paint the gunwales.

B80A9EDD B4F4 4450 9CBB FB3A61665AF1

Get inside the details on the beakhead.

AF567372 8F2E 4E4F BAD4 175F6B147DB0

Paint the keel as well.

Let the starboard side dry for 1-2 hours.

C316C890 35C3 44BA A47E D12C51E5D88A

Like before, add a layer of wash to the starboard side.

1A3C61C3 2BB2 4086 9006 9AF2A43CDAEC

I have not mentioned it before, but this way of painting miniatures, base coat-wash-dry brush/edge highlight, is often called the games workshop paint method. This was before they came out with contrast paints.

5FDE9032 2AA2 4EC5 ACA2 C09B47117F33

The wash will go on easily. Add wash to the same areas you did on the larboard side.

D9908BEC BEC3 4A86 90D4 6FD61C9ED601

Check your work from multiple angles.

E5BCE793 C05C 4EAF 8BA6 7D16C5578F2E

Once you’re done with the wash, set the ship aside to let it dry for 1-2 hours.


Step 8: The Mast, Gaff, and Boom

Adjustments.plist 18

Paint Supplies Needed:

  • Wash
  • Paint
  • Brushes
  • Non Precious Cup for Water
  • Wet Pallet
  • Paint Rag
  • Poster putty

I mentioned before that I didn’t intend to prime the wooden rigging parts. This is because these pieces are made of wood and have a natural wood grain. If you prime them the wood will be sealed and the grain will disappear. This is ok if you want to paint them black, and black masts look great and are historically accurate. For “wood” color wooden masts, it is quite easy, and requires the same thing you’ve been putting on the entire ship.

016CBAA9 D57D 444E A31E 1932FA435196

Wash the rigging parts in Agrax Earthshade. Hold one end of the mast, boom, or gaff as you apply the wash to the other side. As you wash it you should notice that the wood is absorbing the wash.

D4843A2E 14E2 49D7 8310 612F3A89ED94

This is a close up picture of the wood grain of the flagstaff. Add extra wash to the underside of the rigging components.

Adjustments.plist 10

As you finish the last piece, the first one you washed should be mostly dry. Add wash to the area you held it on each of the rigging parts.

Repeat this step after the parts have dried.

A return to…

Step 7: Paint the Starboard Side

AEF356F4 C7BA 47C0 BCC8 66C431618929Always make sure your ship is dry before dry brushing. Not only does dry brushing not work on wet paint, but the vigorous motions of dry brushing and wet paint can tear the primer, striping whole portions of paint.

CA1D4B96 89BC 4CD8 8D6F 7B030459A919

Start dry brushing the lower hull with Mournfang Brown.

When painting a big project, like this ship, keep notes on how you paint each section, so you can do the other sides the same way, and check your notes before you start painting. If you don’t you might paint a whole section the wrong color and not realize it until you’re writing an article.

Dry brushing also gets rid of the water marks and brush strokes from the dried wash.

Adjustments.plist 3

Dry brush the gunwales with Bambi Brown or a light brown as well.

Adjustments.plist 7

Use Bright Red on the Beakhead and trim.

9089DFE9 95F8 4C31 B814 823DE0DE0382

Sometimes it helps to paint a whole section, then go over where you first started and add a coat to even it out.

328B3863 005A 4F26 BA6E A9DB520F0348

Paint the beakhead carefully; and with as many coats as it needs.

AEA10E5B 86AB 4D27 8CFE 911F4C6A12EB

If you have any hollows on any section, paint them the same color as the area around them, but don’t put wash in them. This will make them almost disappear most of the time.

C91D7BB6 5720 43C0 8530 0389E718DAC8

I added another light to my right for these pictures, from this point on.

BC0B038F 344C 45DF BE82 C45A5A76278D

Oops! Go back and add the powder burns around the gunports using Rhinox Hide.

23DB19DE F977 4D4C B284 25AC8EE8A00A

Using Pumpkin, start adding an edge highlight to the red areas.

C4D7F018 CE60 4AAA 9758 0C8D4E6CD418

With the starboard side done, the ship is almost completely painted.

Step 9: The Stern

FE834D41 5D8E 49A1 9ADC D965D5D95584

Paint Supplies Needed:

  • Tower of towels and rags
  • Paint
  • Brushes
  • Non Precious Cup for Water
  • Wet Pallet
  • Paint Rag
  • Poster putty

Hopefully I have convinced you about the Towel Method of painting ships. Using a gloved hand to hold the ship works equally as well. I like using the Towel Method because it helps stop paint from being rubbed off when handling the ship, and makes edge highlighting easier.

For the stern, because the bowsprit is glued in, you need to make a tower of towels to cradle the ship while you paint the stern. Flip the ship upside down and set it on the towels.

822B166A 129B 4C2D 80F9 C0853DC059E1

Paint the stern Mournfang Brown. Paint the rudder Mournfang Brown as well.

A7ABE207 6357 4BBB 86B4 AF6DFF200C76

Keep painting until the entire stern is brown. You might need to touch up the black as well. Paint any edges that you missed when painting the larboard and starboard sides.

Let it dry for 1-2 hours.

After it dries, add a wash of Agrax Earthshade.

1456E072 C38A 4073 BCA9 99A53A80B3D1

Once the wash has dried paint the trim Bright Red to match the rest of the ship. The angle of the stern means that it would spend most of its time in shadow, so it looks fine without adding a dry brush.

Once the trim is painted red, and a highlight of Pumpkin Orange.

29342EC0 1AF3 4462 9F0F 1B0E7259A128

The rudder has two large hinges on each side. Paint these black.

These would have been made out of iron surprisingly, though some pictures look like they were made of brass. They would have been covered in tar and black paint, however, to protect them from rust.

2C379C13 A699 4671 AF81 6123E845901B

While you’re painting these black, look at any areas the wash or brown paint missed, and paint those areas black as well.

Step 10: Finishing the Deck, Bow, and Railing

59DCE4F0 E408 42AB B263 4C5CCDB0EA83

Flip the ship right side up.

D737E0B5 9867 4728 8A57 04524F5E62DE

It is finally time to paint the hatch grate.

If you didn’t spray paint the hatch grate, paint the inside of each square black. Remember to paint it black from all four angles (bow, larboard, stern, starboard).

B7E9C5C8 E3F2 4231 A649 F062A69CE5ED

Use Mournfang Brown for the lattice work of the hatch grate. Instead of painting it one section at a time, paint it in stripes, following the natural movement of your wrist.

8DAABE47 EDDD 4E51 A751 2C538ED9AF59

If you get any brown paint on the inside of the hatch grate, stop painting, clean your brush, and use water to get the paint off the black.

6322AC64 778E 48AD A8B8 B481E60A94EC

Move the ship with the towel to a good position for your wrist and start painting the rest of the hatch grate.

E455EF6B 6E4E 4384 9885 D8169E820D17

As it dries, add more layers of brown if the black is showing through.

DC374D97 19D4 4E69 A67F 3F4DA8A8BBFF

While that dries, turn your attention to the bow.

C22C8996 DCAF 4A64 9347 E3C8CC5F2D45

Paint the interior of the beakhead brown.

While that dries, let’s look at the rigging components.

9DFE7AE2 DA75 4752 9002 7EABA12D312F

While the wash brought out the wood grain, it didn’t make the mast match our ship. To correct this, dry brush the rigging parts with the color most of the ship is painted: Rhinox Hide Mournfang Brown.