How to Rig a Blood & Plunder Bermuda Sloop/Balandra

Last Updated on November 9, 2024

Intro

In this article, I’m going to go through a “step-by-step how to” you can rig a plastic sloop that comes in the Blood and Plunder 2 player starter set produced by Firelock Games. My rigging method is very practical. I want my ship to look good but while I’m playing I do not want to do surgery to remove and add models to my deck. So the major stay rigging and sails are usually all I do.

This article is intended to get you started if you have no idea what you are doing and want a presentable rigging plan. Intro

Step 0 – READ!

Read this whole article before you begin your project. This will prevent any surprise moments and give you a better understanding of the process before you begin.

Step 1 – Paint the Masts

Make sure your mast and ship are painted before you start rigging your ship. Also double-check the rigging guide from Firelock Games and make sure your model is using the mast setup that you need for either the Bermuda sloop or the Balandra. The bowsprit and main mast are slightly different between the two. Examples of the differences are pictured below.

The two main differences are the extended part of the bowsprit, and the added spars for the square sail near the top of the main mast.

If you absolutely must, you can glue the mast in place, but I would recommend not doing that as it is best for flat storage and transport. I also like being able to move my gaff sail out of the way while I am moving models on and off. Plus it looks cooler if you can move it.

Step 2 – Assemble Your Supplies

What you will need for this project is:

Elastic string about 0.8 mm diameter
White/PVA glue
Sprue cutters or scissors to cut the string with
Sail material.

Step 3 – Run the Lines for the Shrouds

The first lines you need to run are the shrouds. I typically start at the side plate of the hull and feed my line up through the first hole.

Then loop around the connector of the two mast pieces at the top of the mast. Bring the line all the way back down through the next hole.

I repeat that once more(up over and back down) until I have a line running through each of the four holes.

Make sure these lines are snug but not super tight. Then I tie both of my outside lines together under the side plate. I just use a standard square knot. For the first side you may need someone to hold the mast in place for you.

If you are using the plastic tackle you may want to tie off on each. So you would have two separate lines where I have one long continuous line. I don’t use that part of the kit because I find it fiddly and less secure.

Next repeat the whole process again on the other side. Check and make sure your mast is straight looking down the center of the ship.

It is fine if the shrouds pull the mast a little too far back, we will fix that by pulling it forward with the forestay attached to the bowsprit.

Go ahead and put a dot of glue on your knots before moving to the next step.

Step 4 – Run the Lines for the Forestays.

Next for the Balandra we are going to run two forestay lines, one from the bottom of the mast connection and one from the top of the mast connection.

I tie my lines on the mast first and then pull the mast forward to my liking and then I tie off to the bowsprit. I tie the top line near the end of the bowsprit and the bottom line behind the beak. Example below.

For the Bermuda Sloop we have a longer bowsprit and a square sail to deal with. I tie off at the top of the square sail and just above the mast connector for the two fore stays.

The top stay is again tied at the end of the bowsprit and the bottom stay is tied about half way up the main bowsprit section.

Step 5 – Cut Sails

The gaff sail can be put on before or after rigging. I put mine on before, but after doing so, I think it is actually easier to put it on after. when you have the mast in place it is easy to hold onto.

Print out the sail templates from Firelock game’s website. They are in the downloads section. Then cut out the templates and “dry fit” them into place. You may need to adjust the sail slightly to get it to fit right.

Next using a pencil lightly trace the template onto your sail material. I use a cotton fabric that I recycle from work. Heavy paper, cloth, or sheet foam all work well. Check this article for information on making sails from different materials. Remember to measure twice, cut once, and you can always trim a bigger sail but you can’t add to a small sail.

Cut the sails out. My fabric likes to separate on the cut edges when I start working with it so I put a little white glue around the edges to prevent that later.

Step 6 – Attach sails

Next, make holes at the edge of the sail material to attach it to lines or masts. Do this the best you can with whatever material you are using. For my cotton fabric, I use something pointy and work a hole between the fibers. I only ever use cotton fabric so I can’t tell you what is best for paper, foam, or other materials.

Joseph and Jason both recommend you use a leather hole punch machine like this to punch nice clean holes through your material. I think I will probably try this on my next rigging project.

I then take scrap line pieces and tie the sails to the gaff supports and the stay lines wherever they are needed. As always I dab a bit of white glue to help secure the knot.

Next you are ready to add the jib and forestay sails. it is essentially the same process except you are tying the sails to each forestay line.

I’ve seen a lot of different ways you can add these sails, some tie each end of the sail to the bowsprit and the mast some weave the line through the sail. the choice is yours this is just how I’ve chosen to run mine.

remember the larger sail goes on the topmost stay line.

Side note: make sure your sails are in the right orientation before attaching them!

Once you have the jib and forestay sails done you are finished with the Balandra. Congratulations! If you are working on a Bermuda sloop you have one last sail to attach, the square topsail. There’s nothing special about this sail, just use the same “punch hole tie knot” method as before.

Step 7 – Run any Additional Lines

There are additional lines you can run if you feel like it. Such as the lines from the mast to the top of the gaff (see below).

I don’t do a lot of these extra steps because I like to keep better access to my hull and miniatures, but it does look awesome so if you feel like trying it go for it.

Step 8 – Trim the Excess off the Knots

The many knots you need to tie during this process will leave you with many unsightly twigs of string all over your ship. If your glue has dried you are ready to start snipping them of to make everything look a lot cleaner.

If you’ve made it this far, hopefully, this has given you the knowledge and confidence to get your plastic ships rigged up and looking great. As with most things in this hobby, you get back out what you put in. Some players have super cool-looking accurate sails, and some are like me that do simple and cheap. One thing is certain though, a Blood and Plunder ship with sails and rigging looks so much better than one without!

Photo Galleries of Rigged 18th-Century Sloops

Explore our Photo Galleries of Rigged 18th Century Sloops to uncover some of the rigging and sail craftsmanship of these iconic vessels from other members of the community.

Finally, here are some photos of rigged Balandra Sloops and then Bermuda Sloops.